Wednesday, April 21, 2021

Free crochet bumblebee pattern - book excerpt - included in this post!

I'm so happy to announce that Susan's Small Animal Crochet - 2nd Edition - is now live on Amazon and on Etsy as an eBook!

It's 98 pages (when viewed at 8" x 10") and is chock full of full color step-by-step photos for most of the projects. The patterns are primarily designed for use with crochet thread (No. 3 and no. 10) and a size 4 steel thread crochet hook, but you can adapt many of them to be worked in lightweight or medium yarns and a size F or G hook. (You'll want to be familiar with chain stitch, slip stitch, single crochet, double crochet, and triple crochet.)

There are 13 different animals: sparrow, winged songbird, hummingbird, squirrel, two fish and a goldfish edging, a snail, a sleeping cat, tiny penguin, owl, bumblebee, butterfly, ladybug, dove, bunnies, chameleon and little pony. There are also instructions for working a thread crochet Santa hat on the cat, owl and penguin.

Here's an excerpt for your enjoyment! (scroll down) If you enjoy it, I hope you'll consider supporting my art and design work by buying the full book for $7.99. Thank you in any case, for being a blog reader of mine!

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Bumblebee Pattern

Materials

Note about making a bee from primarily medium weight yarns: if you wish to use this pattern with traditional yarn for a larger bee (approximately 2 ½” long), use a size G hook and medium weight (no. 4) yarn. For the second round of the body of the bee, use that (presumably black) medium weight yarn together with a strand of yellow (either yellow yarn or yellow crochet thread). For the wings, you can use either a lightweight yarn (baby yarn) or medium weight yarn.

Larger Bee Materials:

Black yarn (medium weight)

Yellow yarn OR crochet thread (they give a different look, but either will work)

White yarn (preferably light weight baby yarn)

Size G aluminum hook

Note about making a bee from crochet thread or lightweight yarns: To make a smaller bee (perhaps 1 ½” long) you may use the same pattern with lighter weight materials. Use a double strand of No. 10 crochet thread OR a single strand of No. 3 crochet thread, (which is thicker) and a size 0 steel hook (3.25 mm). You could also use a fine weight yarn. When you get to round two of the bee body, you’ll be adding a strand of yellow crochet thread (preferably No. 10). For the wings, you’ll use a single strand of No. 10 white thread and a no. 6 steel thread crochet hook. Another tip: sometimes you can use craft floss or embroidery floss as an alternative to crochet thread, so pick up a pack of lots of color and have fun! Some work better than others, so you need to experiment.

Smaller Bee Materials:

Black crochet thread (No. 3 weight, preferably; you may also use a double strand of No. 10 weight) OR if you wish, light (baby) weight black yarn

Yellow crochet thread either No. 3 weight or No. 10 weight

White crochet thread OR light weight baby yarn

Size 0 (3.25 mm ) steel thread crochet hook

Instructions:

Bee body: both for a yarn bee and a thread crochet bee, work with two strands held together as one. For the yarn weight bee, this will be black medium weight yarn and a contrast color of embroidery floss or crochet thread (this will be yellow for a bee) For the thread crochet bee, you’ll use a double strand also: black thread and yellow thread.

Rnd 1: This will be a small circle. Ch 3, join to 3rd ch from hook to form a tiny ring, then work 2 ch, dc 11 times in ring to form a small disc. Join. A special note: if you are using crochet thread which typically has less spring to it, you may wish to make that beginning ch-3 ring into a 4-ch ring. It will be easier to make your long single crochet stitches in a slightly larger center when using the less flexible thread.

Rnd 2: work 11 to 14 long single crochet stitches over the dc’s from prev round; you’ll stop when you have covered ¾ (9 stitches) of the dc’s of the prev round. The actual number of lsc’s may vary because individuals vary in how they form their stitches, so just stop when you’ve circled three quarters of the way around the disc. If you’re not sure how to work a long single crochet, just remember that a long single crochet stitch is the same as a normal single crochet, except that you insert your hook in a different place. In the case of this circular bee body, you’ll be inserting your hook into the center of the circle of dc’s. Then you’ll yarn over, then adjust your tension so that the working thread isn’t too loose or tight, and finish your crochet stitch as if it were a normal single crochet. Here’s the video showing how.

After you’ve worked lsc’s ¾ of the way around the disc,

Cut the strand of the yellow crochet thread and continue to work 4 more lsc over the last 3 dc from rnd 1. This way you’ll have long single crochet stitches completely covering the stitches from round one, most of them with yellow

stripes, and the last 4 stitches worked only in black yarn. (See photo above) Join.Turn.

Rnd 3: (Head): Ch 2, work dc in next lsc, 2 dc in next lsc, then dc in one more lsc. Ch 2, join at the base of last dc worked (at the base of the head). Tie off and weave end through work. Also make sure to knot and weave the end of the yellow crochet cotton through the back side of your work.

Antennae: Tie a 5” length of yarn (or thread) to one end of the head, with its two tails hanging free (see photo). Pull one of the tails of yarn through to the other side of the head, and knot both yarn ends securely. Trim both ends to ¾” or desired length for antennae. (Stiffen with fabric stiffener if desired when you’re finished with your bee!)

Wings: There are two versions of bee wings, shown in the photo above. Version One are wings that extend outward from the bee and don’t hide the bee’s body --see two bees on the right side of the photo. Wing version number Two are the wings which are stitches worked on a foundation of chains which travel across the back of the bee in a V shape; they extend upward vertically from the bee. (See the two bees on the left side of the photo to see this wing version.)

Change to white yarn or thread (see notes on materials).

Wings, Version 1 (shown in photo above): (these wings extend outward from the bee and don’t hide the bee’s body, remember).

Attach yarn at the “four-o’clock” point on your bee, four stitches to the right of the base of the bee’s head. Ch 2, work (dc, tc) in same stitch, then work 3 tc in next 2 stitches; work (tc, dc) in last lsc then ch 2 and join at base of wing. Tie off and weave end through your work (I prefer to weave the end of the white yarn through the base of the tc’s where they meet the bee’s body.)

Attach yarn for second wing just to the left of the base of the left side of the bee’s head, work second wing as before, tie off and weave end through your work.

Wings, Version 2: (these wings extend upward from the bee and are formed on a length of chains which are worked in a V-shape across the back of the bee)

Attach white yarn to the “two-o’clock” position at the lower right edge of the bee’s head (see photo above). Ch 6 (or the right number of chains to reach the “6 o’clock” position on the bottom center of the bee). Join to bottom center point, ch 6, join to other shoulder at the base of the bee head. (See photo above left) Turn.

now form main shape of wing, version 2: ch 2, dc in next ch of ch-6 length, (dc,tc) in ch, 2 tc in ch, (tc,dc) in ch, dc in ch, ch 2, join to same ch, sl st to center point of bee’s back and join to center point (at the center chain from rnd 4). You should be at the bottom center of the bee’s body. Sl st to be in position for next wing and continue to form next wing: ch 2, dc in same st, (dc,tc) in ch, 2 tc in ch, (tc, dc) in ch, dc in ch, ch 2, join to same ch. Tie off and weave end of thread through your work.

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Thank you for reading my blog!

If you'd like to see more about my patterns, you can look at my Etsy store or my Amazon Kindle crochet patterns. A paperback of my Showy Flower Crochet Patterns has just been published, (see cover below)

and Small Animals and others will follow soon!

Happy Crocheting!

Susan

Wednesday, March 31, 2021

My Crochet Jewelry Pattern Set is on Amazon - free jewelry pattern here (excerpt from the book)

This crochet jewelry pattern set is a simple and fun set of projects you can wear! You can find it on Etsy here, or on Amazon (both versions are eBooks, and are identical in content.) Scroll down for the free pattern below excerpted from the eBook (the one with the glass beads). Both the Amazon and the Etsy eBook are both $4.40 USD, incidentally. THANK you for considering support for my design work in this way!

What’s so fun about crochet jewelry is how fast you can make it... and the way that you can incorporate anything into your creation. Crochet jewelry can look Goth, Hippie, Natural...any way you want. It’s an easier, more fun way to make something to wear (trust me, closing those little jump rings or, God forbid, soldering them is a bit tough!)

Here's one of the patterns from the eBook; it's also explained by me on YouTube, so check that out as well.

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Section Three: Chain and Bead Designs

Chain-and-Bead Necklace or Bracelet

You’ll need no. 10 crochet cotton and a size 7 steel thread crochet hook for this project, as well as the desired number of beads. I used about 220 variously sized glass beads, which when pre-strung on my thread (the first step you will read about below) stretched out to about 20”.

This youtube video shows you how to get started on this pretty chain-and-bead necklace!

First, you’ll need to stiffen the neatly trimmed end of your working thread so that you can string beads easily! Use a dab of white glue or nail polish,and while it’s not quite dry, roll it in your fingers to straighten it and make a sharp point!

Next, you will string all of your beads, in the exact order and layout that you want them, on to your crochet thread (see below).

Now comes the chaining part: start with a few chains using the end of the thread that was stiffened (you can trim that off). Then, pull up your first bead as you saw in the video,

snug it against the chains you just worked, reach around it, (see below)

and continue to chain 4. Sometimes you’ll need to seesaw your thread back and forth to make the area where you jump across the bead nice and tight.

Continue in this manner *chain 4, jump over bead, repeat from * to desired length (for me, that was eight feet!)

In the photo below, you can see how your necklace grows as those stringed beads wait for you near your ball of thread. You’ll occasionally need to move them down, away from your work, as you need more working thread.

When you are done, knot the two ends together tightly with a double knot, then finish off the knot with a tiny dab of glue (see below).

Your finished piece can be looped around itself three or even four times to make a beautiful piece of jewelry; you can even wrap it around your wrist many more times to make a gorgeous bracelet! The best part is, your necklace is washable and durable.

If you wish, you can work larger knots at each end of your necklace and put crimps and lobster claw closures on them to make the wearing easier.

Above you can see how you can use the same method of chaining, then working around beads to create a simple anklet. In this case you can start with a loop which will be half of your closure mechanism: Ch 12, join to first ch and tighten to create loop closure. I simply continued on in exactly the same manner as the necklace, to add one bead for every 12 chains. Finish off with a knot around one final large beadwhich becomes the other half of the closure. Tie off with a double knot and secure the knot with a dot of glue.

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Thank you for being a blog reader! If you want to see more of my work, check out my pattern store at www.susanlinnstudio.etsy.com or find me on Amazon! Happy crocheting!

New Paperback Edition of Susan's Showy Flowers! Plus Free Flower pattern excerpted from the Book

I am very pleased to announce the publication of my paperback edition of Susan's Showy Flowers on Amazon!

This is the new collection of my crochet patterns for 14 bold and chunky flowers that are great for all kinds of embellishment: put them on children's purses, baskets and toys; sew them onto scarves and sweaters. I love them, and love the little drawstring bag pattern that comes with the flowers.

Here's where you can find it on Amazon! By the way, it's an eBook too on Amazon, in case you prefer that.

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Here's an excerpt from the book for my blog readers: it's the pattern for my New Mum II, which is a crazy, chunky, fun-to-crochet flower that I love. Lots of petals, whew, but when you're done it's so worth it!! Materials needed are at the beginning of the pattern.

Thanks for being my blog readers and have a wonderful day crocheting!

New Mum II - Crochet Pattern Instructions

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This full and showy chrysanthemum can be worked in any weight yarn with its suggested hook size; but I prefer a medium weight yarn and a size F or G for a nice tight stitch…or a light weight (baby weight) yarn with a size D or E hook. If you use a soft and flexible yarn, its petals will curl more, as in the blue and gray mums in the photo above. A more sturdy acrylic yarn will yield a flower with stiffer petals.

You can choose either a button style center (shown in the blue and grey example) or a nubby center of sc with small loops (shown in the white example)

Use two colors of yarn, one for the flower center, and one for the main color of your flower.

In your first yarn color for your center, (I chose light green light weight yarns), make your flower center first, ending with a round of 18 stitches to build your mum petals on:

Button center:

Rnd 1: Ch 3, join to form small ring. Ch 2, dc 11 times in ring. Join.

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Rnd 2: Cover dcs of rnd 1 with 18 long single crochet stitches. (You can see a small tutorial if you search youtube for “VideoLongSingleCrochet”). Join. Skip to Rnd 5 to complete your mum.

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Alternate Nubby Center:

Rnd 1: Ch 1, tighten to form a small knot (this is optional, but it keeps your work from loosening), then ch 2; in 2nd ch from hook work a sc circle of 6 sc (see photo on next page) Do not join.

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Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in every sc: 12 sc.

Rnd 3: In FLO (front loops only), work *(sc, ch 3) in next sc, repeat from * around. (see photo on next page).

$C:\Users\Susan\Pictures\CrochetPhotos\MumII\DSCN0989.JPG$

You will still have the remaining 12 back loops on the reverse side on which you will continue your flower (see photo on next page).

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Rnd 4: In remaining back loops on reverse side, work (sc, 2 sc) around for a circle of 18 sc. (see photo below).

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Change to main color of your flower (White in my example). Attach to ending point of last round.

Rnd 5: In FLO (front loops only) of last rnd, work *( ch 6, sc in next st), repeat from * around. Do not join.

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Rnd 6: in remaining back loops from Rnd 4, work sc in every st. (see photo on next page)

Do not join.

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You will now work in the front loops only of the sc stitches just formed.

Rnd 7: *Sc in FLO of next sc,Ch 6, skip 1st ch and sc in next 5 ch back to center, repeat from * around. (see photos below) Do not join,

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Side view of round 7

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Front view of round 7- sc petals

Rnd 8: Again reach to back of flower and work next rnd in remaining back loops from Rnd 6:

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Round 8 – dc petals

*Sc in next loop, Ch 8, skip 1st 2 ch, work dc in next 6 ch back to center, repeat from *around. See photo above. Join. Tie off and weave yarn end through the back of your work.

See how the back of your mum should look in the photo below).

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(back view of mum)

And below see the finished Mum!

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Thanks for looking! If you'd like to see more, you can find all of my Amazon ebooks on crochet here; and on Etsy, my patterns can be found at susanlinnstudio.etsy.com

Have fun and happy crocheting!

Susan

www.susankennedy.com

Sunday, March 21, 2021

Free Hummingbird Pattern and ... my Giant Crochet Pattern Treasury now $9.99 (USD) on Amazon!

Free Hummingbird Pattern and ... Check out my Giant Crochet Pattern Treasury now $9.99 (USD) on Amazon!

I'm back at the crochet drawing board and yearning for spring to come, too! Which of course makes me think of crochet flowers and birds! I now have two little granddaughters and I've been enjoying bequeathing little crochet bags and hats to them. Kids and crochet just go together!

One of my favorite little patterns from my archives has been this little hummingbird, which really isn't too difficult if you have a basic familiarity with sc, dc, tc, ch and this long single crochet stitch (also known as the spike stitch)...(here's a video.explaining that last) ...scroll down for the pattern!

scroll down for pattern

Incidentally, this is my (Amazon) paperback collection of 14 of my small animal appliques all in one place...and here's the Kindle eBook Treasury of almost all of my small project designs including these animal appliques. (It's in the Kindle store on Amazon, and if you are a Kindle Unlimited member, it's free! This latest revision includes more than ten new patterns, including new baby hats, scarves and animal appliqués. There is a total of more than 70 individual patterns: scarves, baby hats, crochet jewelry, craft projects, lots of crocheted flowers, garlands, and more.

Kindle eBook version of the Small Animal Applique pattern collection

Kindle eBook version of this hummingbird pattern

So here is the pattern for the little hummingbird applique below. Thanks for being a blog reader!

Hummingbird Ornament or Appliqué

This little ornament is mostly a single round of stitches of varying height, all worked counterclockwise on top of a length of foundation chains. As you form the bird’s head, you will notice that the beak is nothing more than a floppy length of chain stitches: don’t worry, when you pin this loop to a piece of cardboard and stiffen it with fabric stiffener or white glue, it will look like a hummer’s beak! This little guy is a bit tricky, but when you get used to it, he’s a snap to make. You can make the second round of decorative stitches in whatever colors you choose, making the wings and throat beautiful and unique. Have fun!

Notes:

Before beginning this piece, tighten your first chain into a knot to secure end of bird (so it doesn’t ravel).

Also see the diagram below which illustrates the first part of this ornament.

Starting at the arrow at the far left of diagram, Ch 14. This is the foundation chain.

Rnd 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in 4^th ch from hook, ch 12 (this will be the beak) join securely to top of dc just worked so end of beak is tight, work counterclockwise around top of head as follows: 5 dc in same ch, dc in next 6 foundation chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next 5 chs, hdc in last ch (you should be back at your beginning knot). Ch across to opposite side of tail, ch 2(counts as hdc on belly side of bird), sc in next 5 foundation chains opposite 5 sc on other side, hdc in next ch, dc in next 5 ch, join to 2^nd ch of beginning ch-3 of rnd 1. You should have a wingless bird. Do not tie off, but continue as follows:

See the next diagram which shows you round two:

Rnd 2: covering the bird in long single crochets and forming the wings: (see diagram above)

Pass thread behind beak and at point A, begin lsc stitches discussed on page 1 and in this video.

From point A, work lsc stitches, inserting hook at a point in the center of the bird’s head. Work counterclockwise, and when you reach point B, start on main wing

(this is the wing on the left. After it is worked, you will sl st across to point B again and work the second wing on the right, then you will tie off.)

To make main wing,(the one on the left) ch 11, then rotate counterclockwise, and, skipping 1^st ch on hook, work 2 sc then 8dc in next 10 ch stitches of wing. Sl st across , still working counterclockwise under the bird’s wing back to point B and work second wing on top of first wing: sl st to first ch, work 2 sc, 4dc in next 6 stitches, then ch 2, tc in next stitch. This is the tip of the smaller wing. Tie off.

Finish the rest of rnd 2: Attach thread at point C and work lsc as in diagram down the bird’s back. Insert your hook in various points, according to your judgment and design needs. When you reach bird’s tail, ch stitch across base of bird to other side of tail, and continue around with lsc stitches, working counterclockwise toward the beak. Tie off when you reach beak.

You will need to stiffen the beak with fabric stiffener, or, in a pinch, white glue. (before this, it will be a floppy loop!). After dabbing a small amount on the beak, pin the beak and the back of the bird’s head to a piece of cardboard and dab away excess stiffener.